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How to turn yesterday's bread into today's treasure

Yesterday’s loaf
Blackened, blistered and brain-bendingly brilliant, the food that slides out of Ester’s mighty woodfired oven has won this unassuming Chippendale fine diner legions of dedicated, die-hard fans. For chef Mat Lindsay, though, it isn’t the cauliflowers or prawns they serve up – popular as they may be – that really get him going, but rather the bread they bake that makes it to the next day.

Yes, at Ester, yesterday’s loaves become today’s treasure, transforming into a dizzyingly diverse range of dishes that span the full course of a meal – from soups, salads and sauces through crumbs, caramels and vinegars to, of course, their infamous leftover sourdough ice cream. In this, Ester’s first book, Mat reveals his recipes for all these and much, much more (the extended essay on the Endless Possibilities of Toast is, in our humble opinion, worth the price of admission alone).

Yes, a book on bread always deserves a medal in our book, but more than anything we salute Mat here for having the last word on the question we’re all desperate to have answered after a lifetime in lockdown – what on earth are we to do with those last bits of a loaf that are too stale to eat but that we can’t bring ourselves to bin?

Gluten intolerant? Look elsewhere. Everyone else? Instant classic.